Second Stay Gold Deli Is Like the Original But Smaller

The new Temescal space feels like a small butcher shop with a bar and is far from being the massive smokehouse/corner market that is the West Oakland location.


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The Ranch Hand is piled high with slow-cooked pulled pork, coleslaw, and jalapeños.

Photo by Lance Yamamoto

Barbecue is as vast an umbrella term as language, say, or beer.

United by their piquant, salty, smoky sweetness, barbecue sauces and styles are as countless as the localities that love and serve them.

At Stay Gold Deli, whose second location launched this spring in Temescal, it’s all about Central Texas, said co-owner Jason Herbers.

“Central Texas barbecue style comes from early German settlers who needed to do something with meat to prevent spoilage. They would smoke it to preserve it longer or grind it down into sausage and smoke it like that. Select seasonings were added to offset any irregular flavor,” Herbers said. “These guys didn’t have refrigeration. ... It’s cowboy barbecue meets old-country butcher-shop tradition.

“I say ‘cowboy barbecue’ because of how the smoke gets up into the fat and flavors the meat. When you look at our barbecue, you see a defined smoke ring” — the thin pink band often hailed as a hallmark of expert smokery. This, along with “our low heat and specialty dry rub and everything from the trimming preparation to the time and the way we rest it before serving, makes it as good as it is.”

Selling meats and cheeses by the pound, the new space “feels more like a small butcher shop with a bar than a massive smokehouse/corner market,” as does the West Oakland location, Herbers mused.

He called the new spot “a fantastic smaller version” of the original, serving some of the same fare along with beers, wines, charcuterie plates, and new sandwiches such as the Amarillo by Morning (bacon, brisket, cheddar, jalapeños, barbecue sauce, and roasted poblano aioli on a sourdough roll). Developing the sandwiches “was a group effort, really, but I wanted them to taste like the sandwiches I would get from New York, and Washington, D.C.-area delis in the ’80s. They had a distinct flavor and style, and I wanted to re-create that.”

 

Stay Gold Deli, 4935 Shattuck Ave., Oakland,

510-808-5964, StayGoldDeli.com.

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