KronnerBurger Enlivens Piedmont Avenue
Fancy hamburgers and choice sides reach masterpiece levels at this new culinary outpost.
Chris Kronner has developd a quick following with his eponymous artisanal burger biz on Piedmont,
Photo by Lori Eanes
The inexorable ascent of the hamburger, from lowly fast food to mandatory artisanal feature on every upscale menu around, has reached its local apotheosis with the opening of KronnerBurger. All-beef patties have had names attached to them for most our lifetimes: McDonald’s, Wendy’s, Carl’s Jr., Tommy’s (L.A.), and Oscar’s (Berkeley, R.I.P.). But this joint is something different, taking its moniker from chef Chris Kronner, who made his name as chef at Bar Tartine and Slow Club and as a pop-up maven in San Francisco before manifesting his brick-and-mortar identity in Oakland at the triangular former location of Jay’s Mexican-American.
The name-studded operation—Brad Taylor (Ordinaire) choosing wine, Alex Phillips (Locanda) designing cocktails, Sayre Piotrkowski (Hog’s Apothecary) curating beers—is minimalist on design (by Wylie Price of Ramen Shop and The Progress; executed by Andrew Poyner) but maximalist on menu. There are complicated salads and such daily-special entrées as steak, chops, and salmon, and several sides such as bone marrow, onion rings, and fries.
But the centerpiece is the burger, a vertical masterpiece of house-ground, dry-aged, dairy-cow beef and grass-fed whole-animal steer meat (or a mushroom-tofu-based veggie alternative) on a puffy, potato-flour-enhanced bun, with iceberg lettuce and cheddar-infused mayonnaise. Wimpy would gladly repay you double on Tuesday for one of these today.
KronnerBurger, 4063 Piedmont Ave, Oakland,510-823-2371, www.KronnerBurger.com