5179 Telegraph Ave.
The bustling self-described “classic American eatery” with pleasantly motley décor has become a thriving neighborhood hangout with dining-destination appeal. The quirky menu is a pot pourri of soups, salads, sandwiches, “little plates,” sides, “supper” dishes and desserts. Offerings including such reassuring throwbacks as tomato soup with grilled cheese, mac and cheese and chicken pot pie. But SR24 introduces seasonal and artisanal dishes and ingredients (homemade ricotta, Berkshire pork, Rocky Jr. chicken) to capture the attention of foodies. Chef-owner and Oaklander Josh Woodall, who builds a Facebook following with daily posts and specials, exploits the inherent appeal of such comfort food but also taunts with tantalizing twists on classics. A something-for-everyone menu is usually a self-defeating exercise in compromise, but at SR24 the passion never flags and the execution rarely falters, making it an affordably upscale roadhouse of American dreams. Lunch and dinner Tue.–Sat.
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