An impressive Jack London Square newcomer, Bocanova offers a lively warehouse-elegant ambience, killer cocktails and an appetizing pan-American menu. Executive chef Rick Hackett and his wife, Meredith Melville, have transformed a former icehouse into a stylish post-industrial milieu perfectly in tune with Oakland’s citywide restaurant renaissance. Hackett takes inspiration from family-style staff meals prepared by a Peruvian sous-chef at one of his other restaurants and applies a refined California touch to the fresh local ingredients on his eccentrically subdivided, seasonally changing à la carte menu. Some creations remain top of mind: Dungeness crab deviled eggs, fried padrone peppers, turkey gumbo, roasted plantains, the Sea of Cortez scallops, halibut ceviche, Yucatan seafood stew and warm chocolate croissant bread pudding with Mexican chocolate ice cream. An intriguing wine list is dominated by Spanish, Portuguese, West Coast and Argentinean varietals, and the cocktail list is chockfull of high-end ingredients and novel concoctions. Bocanova offers more than enough reasons to return to JLS during its transition from old school to new frontier. Serves lunch and dinner daily.