A restaurant modeled on Eugene, Ore., in Albany, Calif., seems a little weird, but it works. Co-owner Ryan Murff found inspiration in the Excelsior Cafe of his native Eugene and brings well-prepared, farm-to-table fare into a family-friendly atmosphere with “a splash of granola-hippie” and a solid cocktail program. This is California-style cuisine with an Oregon bent. That means an emphasis on seafood, plus a touch of lumberjack-inspired heartiness—chowder, grits, veggies with cheese sauce, biscuits and gravy, as well as tender braised pork shoulder, grilled rib-eye, and “green eggs and sam.” Cafe Eugene, where the menu reads heavy but eats light, believes in options, so it’s easy to share sides or make one—the Oregon toasts are particularly fun—a meal. Dive into the fried wild rice, crispy textured rice with meaty hedgehog mushrooms and cranberry beans topped by a poached egg and evergreen sauce. That’s California-Oregon all right. Serves dinner Tue.–Thu. and breakfast, lunch, and dinner Fri.–Sun.