Everything about Commis, the much-anticipated ultra upscale restaurant, aims to draw attention to chef James Syhabout’s meticulous preparations. If your dining aesthetic is informed by MOMA and Zen sensibilities as much as it hinges on gustatory satisfaction, then Commis is just what the curator-monk ordered. This is high-concept cuisine — enough so to make it Oakland’s only Michelin-starred restaurant. Sleek, super modern digs and stark design let the food earn top billing. Syhabout, a veteran of Coi and Manresa, is a wizard at making a potential overabundance of ingredients work on the plate and the palate. His dinners are prix fixe — five courses for $68. A dinner at Commis is akin to a fashionable and sedate art opening, so expect dazzling eyefuls on every plate, from the lovely little amuse-bouche glass of strawberry-infused red shiso soda to the post-dessert cubes of Concord grape and ginger gelée and everything in between. Serves dinner Wed.Sun.