Gather’s new chef, Tu David Phu, is reimagining simplicity at this omnivore-friendly, fork-to-table restaurant where the menu changes daily. Tonight brought towering salmon tartare, dreamy South-of-France-style chickpea panisse, a chilled-corn bisque, and a wonderwork of fruit, nuts, bread, and cheese. This is fare that’s not crazy-fancy-complicated but breathtakingly simple, complexly simple. That is mastery: to take basics, deconstruct them, re-examine them, revere them, and then reimagine them with impressive expertise, Phu’s forté. “The simpler a dish is, the more complicated it can be to make and serve,” he says, carrying the proviso to what comes out of his kitchen, from pizza and fried green tomatoes to seasonal ratatouille. It’s a welcome pleasure in an era when so many chefs overuse butter, sea salt, duck fat, ghost peppers, cream, and the like. Phu’s dishes are so subtly flavored as to fill one with (a) relief and (b) reverence for his restraint. Serves dinner daily, 5-9:30 p.m.; weekday lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; and weekend brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m.