This is a chicken-centric Japanese yakitori eatery rich in creativity, finesse, and variety. Tommy Cleary is the executive chef behind the grill monitoring, flipping, and rearranging skewers, wings, and other chicken parts over the slow-burning Japanese-made binchotan charcoal. Each night, Cleary breaks down 15 or so whole, French-bred poulet rouge chickens, wasting nothing. Try the skewers of meltingly tender sori maki thigh oyster, crunchy nhiza knee cartilage, all manner of innards, and straight-up kawa, or chicken skin. There is artistry here in the precise attention to detail. The rest of the menu, meanwhile, is an exercise in creativity: delicately shaved daikon salad, tomato sanbaizu, excellent shime rice dishes, and hiyashi wonton. The concept and flavors don’t lend themselves to easy explanation, which make gaining traction in a highly competitive restaurant environment that much more difficult, even with food this distinct and exciting. Serves dinner Wednesday through Sunday.