Umami, the Japanese notion of savory as the fifth-taste designation, makes its way into the Lola’s literature to describe its main thing: chicken. The menu offers hand-breaded tenders alone, on Semifreddi’s French rolls, in flour tortillas, or in salads, plus a few other soups, sides, and desserts. The tenders here (classic, signature, or grilled) start out being marinated in koji, or fermented rice malt, an of-the-moment trendy enzyme-rich tenderizer, and then they’re meant to be paired with any one of 18 homemade sauces and perhaps tempting sides like fries, side salad, slaw, or “Lola Mac.” The drill at Lola’s, run by Alamedans Mark, Nancy, and Ryan Rogers, is ordering at the counter, fast-food like. It gets super busy with the high-school crowd, but diners can call ahead their orders. Serves lunch and dinner daily.