Taking over where Café Rouge left off after 20 years in a prime Fourth Street location, Pompette missed nary a beat when Chez Panisse vet David (chef) and jewelry entrepreneur Caramia (front-of-house manager) Visick updated the airy space and installed their distinct Cal-French-Med menu. The capacious zinc bar has become iconic to West Berkeley dining culture, and the new cocktail menu, from a perfectly balanced rye Manhattan to the mezcal-based La Sarriette, does it justice. Minor service glitches marred our lunch and dinner visits, but not enough to dim the glow of such finely conceived and executed highlights as mussels escabeche; boules de picolat (pork and beef meatballs in a spicy tomato sauce with Picholine olives and white beans); grilled monkfish with chickpeas, preserved lemon, and broccoli di ciccio; olive oil–poached tuna melt with Basque cheese; or almond cake with rhubarb compote and whipped cream. The French- and Italian-dominated wine list complements dishes true to farm-to-table California cuisine principles. Open for lunch and dinner Mon.-Sat. and brunch and lunch Sun.