Rivoli does restauranting radiantly rightly. And this cozy, deceptively low-key-looking spot on Solano Avenue underwent some major changes in the fall, including an interior facelift, a new chef de cuisine, and an updated menu. The result? Rightness, magnified and multiplied, from the yellowfin crudo, smoked-ricotta raviolo, and seared scallop to the rabbit loin, boudin, and brioche pudding. Kandinsky-worthy compositions arrive tableside often at Rivoli, which doesn’t join the trying-to-be-trendy restaurant race, though there are daring and different dishes: sugar-pie pumpkin purée spiced with vadouvan, chicken confit served with meatballs, wild-mushroom croquettes. It’s a familiar-yet-surprising ethos with an edible-explosions experience. Serves dinner daily.