It’s only natural that salads would be popular in a humid Southeast Asian country whose average summer temperature surpasses 90 degrees and whose winter temperatures hover well over 70. And it’s only natural that mixery-and-matchery would characterize the salads and other dishes of an ancient land inhabited by more than 100 ethnic groups, sandwiched between culinary powerhouses China, Thailand, and India. And it’s only natural that Burma would engender a cuisine in which fusion isn’t a bug but a feature, particularly in salads and soups, the main attractions. That’s what happens on the plate here, from the tea-leaf salad, or laphet thoke; soup, or mohinga, a catfish-purée chowder; and ohnoh kawt swe, a lustrous coconut-cream bisque, thanks to the talents of U Win Aye. He is an ex-Burma Superstar chef who makes the fusion even more fantastic and manages to weave together the flavors of East and West in the other classics such as stir-fried noodles, biryani rice, curries, marinated kebat dishes, coconut rice, pork curry, and bone-on catfish. One exceptional fusion dish is minted-jalapeño tofu, chicken, or pork, which also contains entire sautéed garlic cloves. Options for vegetarians and vegans abound, another plus. Open daily serving lunch and dinner.