If you are limited to one stop in Oakland’s Koreatown, it should be this bright, spotlessly clean place whose name means “top of the mountain.” Sahn Maru is probably best known for its black goat stew, a fantastic dish made with tender chunks of mild goat and sesame leaves in a smoldering, almost creamy mustard-and-bean-paste broth, served with vinegary black-sesame-paste dipping sauce. For something a little tamer but no less delicious, don’t miss the dark gui; made with tender chunks of spicy, slightly sweet grilled chicken breast and sautéed vegetables, it will make a Korean-food convert of anyone. The crisp, pan-fried dumplings are great, too. While the big menu can be intimidating, the servers are unfailingly gracious and helpful. Meals end with a delicious (and complimentary) cold beverage made with sugar, ginger, cinnamon, dates and pine nuts. Lunch and dinner daily except Tuesday.