This reborn, rustic, and refined roadhouse, infused with New American cuisine and craft cocktails, deserves a road trip. Remade into a tavern-like bistro with the feel of a turn-of-the-19th century saloon, this outpost, the star of a tiny waterfront town, puts mussels, ribs, chicken, steak, stew, and craft cocktails on par with the best of the same trendy ilk in Oakland or San Francisco. You’d be happy and sated from a meal straight from the apps or sides—crunchy, fritter-like fried green tomatoes, crispy fried beans, and, say, roasted macaroni gratin—but take a crowd for the family-style approach and add the dry-rubbed St. Louis pork ribs, pozole-like pork stew, or popular fried chicken. Portions are huge and homey and meant to be shared. Serves dinner Thu.Sun and brunch Sun.