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Secret Eats

Russell Moore, Camino

     Warm, fresh and delicious never go out of style, that much Camino chef and Chez Panisse vet Russell Moore can tell you. His Grand Avenue restaurant puts the focus on what The New York Times dubbed “wonderfully sourced ingredients,” which change with the seasons. Moore keeps it down to earth yet very special with, of late, weddings and themed dinners every Monday, spotlighting, say, steak, paella or sauerkraut, in addition to weekend brunches with a twist. When Moore
isn’t cooking, he makes a point of stopping at these Oakland finds.

Pyung Chang Tofu House  I always like their panchan — the parsley tofu salad, the kimchi, the little fried fish. It changes all the time. I usually go with my wife, Allison, and my mother (she’s Korean). Oh, yeah, the rice is always good.
4701 Telegraph Ave., (510) 658-9040

Sam Yick Market  OK, I don’t get food at this Chinatown grocery store, but I buy lots of weird sandpots to use in the fireplace at Camino: They’re supercheap and superfunctional. They have a little bucket of water for you to use to
test the pots because they are not returnable.
They also have good Chinese ladles and spoons that are good to reach far into the fireplace to scoop out a little sauce or broth.
362 Eighth St.,  (510) 832-0662

Commis  I love how James [Syhabout] buys great produce and cooks it completely differently than we do here. I also think, as sophisticated and clever as the food is, it is balanced really well with the fun and informed vibe in the front of the house with Sarah [floor manager-sommelier].
3859 Piedmont Ave., (510) 653-3902,
www.commisrestaurant.com

El Paisa  If you poke your head around, you can see some interesting things going on the kitchen — like slow-fried little onions, nopales, really weird pieces of beef cooking in arcane cooking vessels. 4610 International Blvd., (510) 534-2180

Santo Coyote  Really good caldos and handmade tortillas. 4806 International Blvd., (510) 261-8696

Camino, 3917 Grand Ave. (510) 547-5035, www.caminorestaurant.com