Walk on the Wild Side

Autumnal Flavors Meld in Savory Tart


Roy Creekmore

In a few weeks Northern California will offer one of nature’s best treats, as our rainy season sets the stage for lots of wild mushrooms. From chanterelles to morels to porcini, they will soon be available at their peak and in large enough quantities that the restaurants won’t get them all. If, like me, you love the earthy, delicious taste of mushrooms, you are always on the lookout for new ways to serve them.
    After tasting the great combination of mixed mushrooms and goat cheese in another dish, I knew these two flavors were made for each other. I developed this particular recipe when I needed to make a quick supper one evening. The distinctive flavor of a good goat cheese combined with the earthiness of wild mushrooms is bound to please the most discerning palate. I like a mixture of both wild and domestic when making this dish.                
    Common button mushrooms combined with shiitake, crimini, porcini and oyster mushrooms make an especially winning combination. Experiment with different mushrooms and find a combination that you and your family enjoy.
    The wine used for this recipe can be either red or white, but if you use a white, it should be a full-bodied Chardonnay or similar bold wine. Any red works well; I especially like a good Zinfandel as it seems to balance the strong, assertive flavors of both the goat cheese and the mushrooms.
    Next time you want a delicious brunch or a light supper, try this tart, a green salad and a glass of your favorite wine.

MUSHROOM AND
GOAT CHEESE TART

1 package large puff pastry sheets
1 1⁄2 pounds mixed mushrooms,
    wild and domestic
1 large portabella mushroom
3 large shallots
1⁄4 cup butter
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1⁄3 cup of your favorite red wine
Salt and pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced
1⁄2 teaspoon Tabasco
1⁄4 cup heavy cream
1 large egg, slightly beaten
1⁄2 pound goat cheese, well-chilled;
    slightly frozen is even better

    Following the directions on the box, thaw the puff pastry. Roll out both of the pastry sheets, using a little flour to dust the sheets to prevent sticking. Using your fingers, press the pastry sheets into a tart pan or rimmed baking sheet (9x13) works well. Press the dough all around the edges. Using the tines of a fork, prick the dough on the bottom of the pan several times. Bake for 7 minutes in a preheated 425-degree oven. Remove from the oven and set aside.
    Clean the mushrooms and remove any stems. Reserve the portabella for decoration. Chop the remaining mushrooms into fairly small pieces and set aside. Finely chop the shallots. Sauté the shallots in the melted butter until translucent. Add the chopped mushrooms, Worcestershire sauce, wine, salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat until all moisture is gone; the mushrooms should be quite dry. Add thyme and Tabasco and continue cooking for one minute. Remove from heat and cool until the mushrooms are just warm to the touch.
    In a separate bowl, whip the cream until it just starts to become stiff and then whisk in the beaten egg. After the mushroom mixture has cooled, fold it into the cream and egg mixture. Gently pour the filling mixture into the partially baked tart crust and distribute evenly. Slice the reserved portabella across the top into thin slices, showing the white shape of the mushroom, and arrange decoratively on the tart. Using a serrated knife slice the goat cheese into thin slices and arrange aside the portabella slices.
    Bake at 425 degrees for 20-25 minutes until the edges are golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.