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158 Oak View Ave.
Kensington, CA 510-525-1350 French-trained chef-owner Robin Valerie Low brings upscale dining to Kensington, offering relative bargain prix fixe food-and-wine pairings in pleasantly subdued, unpretentious and uncrowded surroundings. We, however, supped à la carte for an unhurried dinner. Salads—Belgian endive fanned symmetrically around toasted walnuts and a fragrant hunk of Cypress Grove Humboldt Fog and escarole with added crunch from daikon radish and levain croutons plus tanginess from blood orange—slightly missed the mark (too much endive; too timid vinaigrettes; expensive). But entrees (which change often) properly held up: succulent, rare Liberty duck breast sided with a delightful medley of dandelion greens, spring onions, fava beans, peas and fingerling potatoes; pappardelle with green garlic–crème frâiche, asparagus, spring onion and lardons. Dinner Wed.–Sat., brunch Sat.–Sun. Additional InformationPrice: $-$$$$
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