Shop, Eat & Play in Elmwood

 

Shopping Made Simple in Berkeley

ELMWOOD IS HOME TO MANY OF BERKELEY'S FINEST HOMES and has boasted such famed residents as abstract painter Richard Diebenkorn and Black Panther Eldridge Cleaver. But it’s also home to a vibrant two-plus-block stretch of shopping ops, from shoes to kids’ gear to real estate. Here’s a selection from some of Elmwood’s best.

WHERE TO SHOP 

1. Mrs. Dalloway’s Literary & Garden Arts
This bookshop-cum-gardening Mecca is the brainchild of two longtime friends and publishing world veterans, Marion Abbott and Ann Leyhe, who launched the shop in 2004, inspired by the opening line of Virginia Woolf’s masterpiece Mrs. Dalloway: “Mrs. Dalloway said she would buy the flowers herself.” The gardening element of the airy shop—including a slew of books on everything from organic gardening to gardening in small spaces to Japanese gardens as well as a nice selection of live plants grouped in unusual containers—draws visitors far and wide, but don’t pass over the spot’s great selection of literature, including the latest fiction and nonfiction in both hardcover and paperback.
2904 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 704-8222, www.mrsdalloways.com, open 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Mon.–Wed., 10 a.m.–9 p.m. Thu.–Sat. and noon–6 p.m. Sun.

2. Jeremys Department Store
Prepare for crowds at the Berkeley branch of this San Francisco–based small chain. In the women’s branch of the store (2961 College Ave.), you’ll find a lot of steeply discounted items from J. Crew and Anthropologie, with a smattering of gear from high-fashion designers, mainly sold as “salvage,” which means it pays to pick through the items carefully. It’s also a great spot to pick up a party dress, as Jeremys stocks a huge array in bright colors and new condition. Down the street at 2967 College Ave., you’ll find menswear (along with women’s shoes) from Levi’s, Prada and other big names.
2961 and 2967 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 849-0701, www.jeremys.com, open  11 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Sat. and 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Sun.

3. Tail of the Yak

Part Gothic wonderland, part Victorian charm school, this Elmwood shop—
a local favorite for 35 years—offers everything from a wide selection of Victorian jewelry, glittery trinkets and religious reliquaries to letterpress stationery, taxidermied critters, sweet-smelling soaps and objets d’art, all chosen with a decidedly idiosyncratic aesthetic. The shop’s wares skew toward pricey, but the objects are mostly one-of-a-kind antiques or handmade by local and other artists.
2632 Ashby Ave., Berkeley, (510) 841-9891, open 11 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat.


WHERE TO EAT

4. Ici
You’d best prepare your taste buds for some superdeliciousness before trying out this new-ish ice cream shop run by former Chez Panisse pastry chef Mary Canales. The freezer case features three scoops of each distinctive flavor on offer, artistically displayed in ceramic pedestal bowls. And the flavors! Nectarine sorbet, toasted almond, F lavor King pluot sorbet, green tea … Ici doesn’t have 31 flavors, but what it does have is a carefully selected group of gourmet tastes that change seasonally and are made fresh daily, using local, organic ingredients—sure to wow the most foodie of foodies. And the prices are quite reasonable. At press time, two scoops were a bargain at $3.75. The tiny shop also features little nibbles, ice cream bombes and baked Alaska that may be more to your liking.
2948 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 665-6054, www.ici-icecream.com, open 2 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Monday, noon–9:30 p.m. Tue.–Thu. and noon–10 p.m. Fri.–Sun.


5. Gordo Taqueria
You’ll know you’ve arrived at this low-key taqueria when you spot the lunchtime line snaking out its door. The eatery has a limited menu, but what it does, it does deliciously and on the cheap. A bean and cheese burrito is only $3.75 and sticks to the basics—beans, cheese, salsa. What more do you need? The taqueria also has other basics, such as tacos and quesadillas, and offers three choices of meat—chicken, carnitas or carne asada. Basic, simple, perfect Mexican comfort food.
2989 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 204-9027, open daily 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m.

6. Trattoria La Siciliano
Owned by the Berkeley branch of the sprawling restaurant-owning Italian D’Alo family, this friendly and cozy Sicilian spot is a lovely choice for a romantic evening a deux or for dinner with a small group of good friends. The rather long menu features a large roster of antipasti, including a number of eggplant dishes and Sicilian seafood salad, multiple choices of gnocchi, pastas with seafood and vegetables and fresh fish dishes. For parties of three or more, you can choose to eat family style, with everyone sharing a number of dishes. You can bring your own wine for a $10 corkage fee, but remember to bring cash, as the trattoria doesn’t take credit cards.
2993 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 704-1474, www.trattorialasiciliana.com, open daily 5 p.m.–10 p.m.

WHERE TO PLAY

7. Espresso Roma Café
Grab a seat at this Berkeley institution and watch the human parade float down College Avenue. Located at the prime people-watching corner of College and Ashby, the somewhat cavernous Roma is always filled with people scribbling, tapping computer keyboards (free wireless!), chatting, philosophizing and simply enjoying a café latte. The small, sunny patio out front is a great place to enjoy your coffee and features aromatic lavender bushes separating the sippers from the strollers. In addition to caffeinated beverages, the cafe also has loads of food, from salads and sandwiches to individual pizzas as well as beer and wine.
2960 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 644-3773, www.espressoroma.com, open 6:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon.-Fri. and 7:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Sat.–Sun.

8. Berkeley Public Library, Claremont Branch
This smallish storybook-cottage-looking library holds events for your toddling tykes every Saturday morning. At 10:15 a.m., catch a librarian leading babies from 6 months in a round of nursery rhymes and songs or reading aloud from very short picture books. An hour later, it’s storytime proper, with longer books read for kids 3 to 5 years old. While you’re there, be sure to pick up the library’s “Once Upon a Lap” flier, which is a great resource for parents to pick out winning read-aloud books for the under-kindergarten set.
2940 Benvenue Ave., Berkeley, (510) 981-6280, www.berkeleypubliclibrary.org; Baby Bounce and Toddler Time, 10:15 a.m. Saturday; Preschool Story Time, 11:15 a.m. Saturday.

9. Rialto Cinemas Elmwood

Launched as the Strand Theater in 1914, when admission for adults was only 10 cents, the Rialto Cinemas Elmwood building is a Berkeley city landmark, and was one of the neighborhood’s first commercial structures. The theater closed down in 1941 and again in 1988, but reopened in 1994 with help from the Elmwood Theater Foundation. Today the art deco–style building holds three individual theaters, all with remarkably comfy seating, and mainly showcases foreign and indie films. Don’t skip over the snack bar in the cozy lobby, which carries high-end goodies, such as Häagen-Dazs ice cream bars and Izze sparkling juices.
2966 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 433-9730, www.rialtocinemas.com/elmwood; call or check the Web site for showtimes.

By Elise Proulx
Photographs by Amy Perl