Ears to the Ground
Between playing all kinds of music on mandolins, helping shepherd a world-music recording label, and cooking (and co-parenting 8-year-old daughter Lucy) at home in Oakland, Mike Marshall’s world is complete. Tall and gangly, with a mop of curly hair erupting from his head, Marshall wraps his long fingers around the tiny mandolin and makes its eight strings sing. Jazz, Bach, bluegrass, Brazilian
choro—if it’s music, it flows through that instrument, often in collaborations with everyone from mentor David Grisman to classical violinist Joshua Bell.
Marshall was 19 when he moved from Florida in 1978 to join the David Grisman Quintet and revolutionize the world of acoustic string music. “David was in Marin, but I had a friend in Rockridge and moved in,” Marshall says. “I’ve always loved Oakland. It’s the Brooklyn of the Bay Area. It’s got all the people right here.” Grisman’s groups blazed the trail for the “new acoustic music” fusion of bluegrass and jazz. “At that point there was Bill Monroe and Del McCoury,” Marshall says of the two bluegrass mandolin greats, “and then we came along—ears to the ground, taking it all in and doing something that made sense to us. Today there are all these young guys like Nickel Creek.”
The Grisman Quintet violinist, Darol Anger, has been Marshall’s duo partner on and off for 29 years, and they have a new CD,
Woodshop, on Adventure Music, the label Marshall co-founded to promote his passion for Brazilian composers and players.
When not cooking up new tunes in his Montclair home studio, Marshall is in the kitchen following up on his Italian roots and recipes. “I’m trading guitar lessons for cooking lessons with Cal Peternel [the upstairs chef at Chez Panisse],” he says. “I’ve been here to watch this whole food revolution happen in a gentle way. I say Alice Waters for president! I’m amazed at how little was available here before she planted the seeds, and now even Safeway’s following what she started.”
—Larry Kelp
Keeping it Positive
For those who think hip-hop is the culprit for the ills of the inner city; for those who know the culture only for its materialism, misogyny, violence, homophobia and braggadocio—meet Sam Mulberry, a.k.a. Desi, creator of the Weekend Wake-Up.

Entering its fourth year this fall, the Weekend Wake-Up (
www.weekendwakeup.com) is a series of free, themed, monthly events throughout the school year that use the elements of hip-hop—music, dancing, graffiti (rather, “aerosol writing”), fashion and art—to uplift the community. Starting this fall at various locations in Oakland, such as the SMAAC Youth Center (a community center for sexual minorities downtown) and, if all goes well, even the Oakland Museum of California, the Weekend Wake-Up will put on performances that allow hip-hop-influenced youth to showcase their talents alongside professionals; promote a familial setting in the community; and educate people about productive living.
One event last school year illustrated what the Weekend Wake-Up is all about. The January gathering was held at the Rock, Paper, Scissors art gallery in North Oakland and the theme was a celebration of women. The event included female rappers, local DJs, live painting, break dancing, creative writing and healthy organic food.
“Keep it positive and healthy,” says Mulberry, an aerosol-writing teacher at Oakland charter school Oasis High, who fuels his Suburban with vegetable oil. “We deal with a wide range of issues in the community, address things [mainstream] hip-hop doesn’t always address.”
Finding funding is the biggest hurdle. Though steadfast about keeping the Weekend Wake-Up grassroots and conscious, Mulberry has desires to make the program even bigger. He wants to expand to include West Bay and South Bay youth. He wants to compensate the DJs and artists who in the past have volunteered. He wants a live band at every event and to enlist the talents of established artists to broaden the appeal.
He also wants to keep it free. Nonetheless, Mulberry said he may have to ask for $5 to $15 donations from adults who can afford it, what with his access to city funds exhausted for the time being, his unwillingness to take support from unsavory sponsors, and his own group—Weapons of Mass Expression—needing resources as well.
But keeping the Weekend Wake-Up low budget and underground wouldn’t be the worst thing, Mulberry says. The richness of hip-hop is more than enough to serve the community. “That’s how we’re going to keep the culture going,” he says. “Building the network among the youth and breaking down the prejudices.”
—Marcus W. Thompson II
Get Fresh
Buying fresh, local seasonal ingredients is all the rage, and doing so just got easier on a county-by-county basis for Bay Area residents.

This summer, the California Buy Fresh Buy Local campaign and the Community Alliance With Family Farmers produced the Buy Fresh Buy Local Food Guide, a handy printed and online guide (
www.buylocalca.org or
www.caff.org) to growers, artisans, retailers, restaurants, caterers, institutions and organizations doing their best to promote locally produced food and farm products. The directory also charts area farmers markets, produce seasonality and Community Supported Agriculture locations. “People love the guide—it’s beautiful; it’s laid out by county,” says Temra Costa, CAFF campaign manager for the Bay Area. “It’s really a resource people have been looking for.”
Some 50,000 copies of the free 45-page guide—which lists CAFF members and other local foods supporters from nine Bay Area counties (Alameda, Contra Costa, Marin, Napa, San Francisco, Santa Clara, San Mateo, Solano and Sonoma) as identified by CAFF grower partners—are being distributed in retail outlets listed in the guide. The plan is to print the guide annually, but the searchable online PDF version is being updated frequently to reflect new CAFF members and additional information.
Members must meet CAFF-specific criteria to join CAFF, and membership fees are based on the type of business. The goal of Davis-based CAFF is to increase the viability of family farmers in California; the related Buy Fresh Buy Local marketing campaign, a collaboration with a national campaign and Food Routes Network, emphasizes the importance of sustainable agriculture. “Local” in the Bay Area context means goods were produced with 75 to 100 miles.
“In the Bay Area we’re really fortunate to have so much production right around us,” Costa says. People often ask Costa what they can do to be more environmentally sound, and she says it’s is as easy as rethinking your grocery shopping, noting, “The biggest impact is your food choices.
—Judith M. Gallman
MARY CANALES
Ice Cream Maker
MARY CANALES KNOWS THE SWEET SMELL OF SUCCESS. Just a year after leaving a high profile job as a pastry chef at Chez Panisse, her new shop, Ici, is raising the bar for gourmet ice cream, sorbet and sherbet in the Elmwood. It’s no wonder, with eclectic flavors like lemon and gingersnap, handmade cones and ice cream sandwiches and hand-dipped vanilla and chicory bonbons.

Where do you get the ideas for your flavors?First of all, I definitely follow the seasons, so what’s growing is really what inspires me. I mean, literally, I have to park a little bit away from the shop, and I’m always aware of what’s growing in people’s yards—their gardens. You know, there are apples ripening now and the fennel seeds, the pollen on the ends—you can’t help but notice, it’s all around you. Not that I’m going to go into people’s yards, but you see what’s growing, what’s seasonal.
Apples? Fennel? Those seem like awfully healthy ingredients for ice cream. Don’t tell me you use basil too.As a matter of fact, we made basil ice cream here not long ago … really just inspired because at the farmers market there were these huge bunches of basil next to the peaches I was buying. I thought it might be interesting, and it does go with the fruit flavors. You can have a scoop of basil and a scoop of plum and it’s really good.
You must have some colorful dreams at night.I remember as a kid, dreaming about blueberry pancakes and having to have them or wanting to learn how to make them. Before Christmas, I did dream that I wanted to make a frozen
bûche de Noël. It’s crazy, but I figured out how to make them in my dream, and I made them all night. I woke up exhausted.
Does your staff have input into your flavors?As we’re working we’re constantly coming up with things. I believe all the ideas don’t come from one person. I thrive in a collaborative kitchen like I had in Chez Panisse. When I left Chez Panisse I thought I would leave that, but I was so blown away the first week or two here, we already had it again. We’re all dreaming about ice cream, I guess.
You’re husband, Paul, is the chef at Oliveto. How do you juggle your schedules and raise a family? It’s a crazy chef’s life or artist’s life, and I do tell people who are coming into the business: This isn’t 9 to 5 Monday though Friday. It never will be. My husband and I have it structured that we spend as much time as we can with the kids, so we have our days off kind of staggered. But I’ve always been a pastry-chef mom, so to them it’s normal. And we’re so happy doing what we’re doing, that’s the real payoff, I guess.
Is there any ingredient you’ve vowed never to put in ice cream?It’s kind of hard to say, but I don’t really like garlic ice cream. Even though you can imagine garlic in cream in pasta or something like that, it just doesn’t really speak to me. I had wasabi ice cream in New York once. It was interesting, but it doesn’t really work for me. It’s kind of the nouvelle-cuisine, do-it-just-because-you-can sort of thing. But I guess I’m a little more rooted in tradition. At the end of the day, I just want to make something that’s delicious.
Ici is open daily at 2948 College Ave., Berkeley, (510) 665-6054. —Ginny Prior