Smorgasbord

Grand on Grand

    It seems somehow appropriate that veteran Chez Panisse chef Russell Moore and his partner, Allison Hopelain, chose to open their new restaurant, Camino, on Grand Avenue. The place is, well, pretty grand. Walking in and seeing the heavy wooden tables lined up in rows beyond the impressive bar, the open kitchen’s dramatic fireplace with meat roasting on a spit, the imposing iron chandeliers—and everything a little larger than life (except for the tiny bar tables near the entrance)—made me think of medieval feasts I’ve eaten in London. But don’t expect to drink mead or toss wild boar bones here. The local, seasonal, sustainable menu, which changes daily, has four appetizers (new garlic broth with poached egg, $8.75, was on an early menu) and three main courses (whole local rockfish with chiles, arugula salad and roasted carrots, $24, for example). Blake Brown, formerly of Chez Panisse and San Francisco’s Tartine, is pastry chef, so ask about the desserts.
    Camino, 3917 Grand Ave., (510) 547-5035, www.caminorestaurant.com, open for dinner 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Sun.–Thu. and 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.

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    Meanwhile, Caffe 817 in historic downtown Oakland, a favorite for breakfasts (one poached egg and polenta, $5.50) and sandwiches on focaccia and Acme baguette, is now opening three nights a week as a wine bar. An all-Italian wine list features a 50-bottle selection from boutique winemakers, 15 whites and 15 reds by the glass, and a selection by the quartino (which translates to one-third of a 750 ml bottle, or about a glass-and-a-half). To complement the wines, Caffe 817 has added a selection of antipasti, cheese, salumi and pasta dishes.
    Caffe 817, 817 Washington St., (510) 271-7965), www.cafe817.com, wine bar open 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Thu.–Sat.

—By Wanda Hennig

—Photography by Lori Eanes