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In the Kitchen

The New Picnic Food

Paul Skrentny

This Tort Travels Well

     I attended a picnic a few years ago where more than 20 friends all brought something to share. There was the usual fried chicken, potato salads, fruit salads and lots of normal picnic fare. Of all the foods I sampled that day, one dish stood out both in appearance and taste. It was a vegetable tort baked in a springform pan, unmolded, and sliced into thick wedges. I tried it and found a new favorite picnic food. It was beautiful to look at with its colorful eye appeal of green, yellow and red vegetables, and it was delicious to eat. The flavors were melded perfectly, and the dish was filling without being heavy. It didn’t suffer, as most foods do, from cooking and transporting to an outdoor site. In fact, it seemed to benefit.
    My friend was gracious enough to give me her recipe, and I used it several times. Then, as most cooks do, I tried several variations and found the basic recipe was very flexible. You can add your favorite cheeses, vegetables and herbs, yet it remains delicious every time. My favorite variation is this one with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and a mixture of herbs.
    Try this recipe and then experiment with your favorite cheeses and vegetable variations to create your own personal vegetable tort. It is a great dish to take to parties, and, as I found out, it’s also a wonderful picnic food.

Goat Cheese Vegetable Tort

2    tablespoons softened butter
¼    cup extra virgin olive oil
1    large onion, preferably red, halved and thinly sliced
¾    pound sliced mushrooms
5 or 6 medium-sized summer squash, green zucchini, pattypan, yellow squash, etc., sliced ¼-inch thick
2    bell peppers, different colors, diced
6    large eggs
½    cup heavy cream
4    tablespoons chopped mixed herbs (such as tarragon, parsley, thyme and basil)
     Salt and pepper to taste
3    cups day-old bread, cut into small cubes
½    cup sun-dried tomatoes, in olive oil
1    8-ounce log of mild goat cheese crumbled into small pieces
2     cups shredded Parrano cheese

    Preheat your oven to 350˚ F. Generously butter all sides and bottom of a springform pan. In a skillet heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the sliced onion, mushrooms, squash and peppers. Cook about 10–12 minutes until crisp-tender. Remove from heat and set aside.
     Whisk together the eggs, cream and herbs in
a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Add the bread cubes, sun-dried tomatoes and both cheeses and fold to blend. Add the cooked vegetables and stir to combine. Pour into the springform pan,
and press down on the mixture and spread until even. Wrap the sides and bottom of the springform pan with aluminum foil to seal. Set on a cookie sheet and place in the preheated oven.
     Cook for 50–60 minutes until evenly browned on top and firm to the touch. Let cool and remove from the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.
     This actually gets better if you can make it a day ahead and place in the refrigerator overnight and serve the next day. Be sure to bring it to room temperature for best results. Slice it into wedges as you would a pie or cake.
     This pairs well with a salad and a cold glass of rosé wine for a great lunch and also makes a great picnic lunch.